Small-scale poultry keeping - housing, feeding and managing

The household poultry flock can be a rewarding hobby that supplies fresh eggs, an occasional table bird and natural fertiliser for the garden. This article gives some useful tips on housing, feeding and managing a small flock.

It is worthwhile spending a few extra dollars to build a henhouse that is easy to manage. The house should be easy to clean, free from draughts and easy to enter. To get best results the hens need fresh feed and water every day. Watch for signs of disease; sick fowls may stop laying, some may die and others may recover but be poor layers. Poultry keepers have a duty of care for their welfare of their birds, as for all animals.

How many fowls should I keep?

In Queensland, there are no State Government regulations on the number of household layers. Local councils have by-laws that may restrict the number of birds that can be kept at a domestic property. Contact your council and obtain information on their by-laws for keeping domestic poultry. Councils may prohibit the keeping of roosters in residential areas. In any case, a rooster is not needed for the hens to lay eggs.

In her first year, a hen may lay up to five eggs per week but her production will decline with age, and there will be a period of non-production during moulting in winter. A flock of about six birds will provide plenty of eggs for a family of four. To maintain egg quality, eggs should be stored in the refrigerator.

Commercial producers can supply eggs to whoever they like, subject to being accredited by Safe Food Queensland, and operate under an approved food safety program. Safe Food Queensland regulate and monitor the state's egg industry (supply, processing, wholesaling or transportation of eggs or egg products) to ensure egg and egg products are safe for human consumption and thus limit the risk from cracked and dirty eggs either sold or traded for commercial gain.

Housing your flock

Councils may also have by-laws regulating the size of a backyard poultry shed and its site. Check with your local council before building.

Because there is plentiful feed, rats and mice may breed unless the shed is properly constructed and managed. The shed also needs bird-proofing or wild birds may introduce disease.

There are two types of housing recommended: the deep-litter unit and the cage system.

Deep-litter house

This system is easy to manage and gives the birds comfortable, hygienic conditions. Birds should be housed at a stocking rate of no more than 28 kg/m² (less in hot weather), so as a guide four dual-purpose breed birds/m² (these heavier breeds may weigh 6 kg each) and an outside run is not necessary. If birds have access to a run they soon kill the vegetation and turn it into a muddy, barren, smelly area. Components of a typical poultry shed (see Figure 1):

• an open bird-mesh front, a partially enclosed back and solid sides
• made from material such as fibre-cement board, which is easily cleaned and not too hot
• a sloping roof which slopes to the rear with sufficient overhang at the front (600 mm) and back (300 mm)
• painted roof and walls, preferably matt white, to reflect heat from the sun
• a concrete floor with a rat wall is desirable
• new litter should be spread about 100 mm deep.

Suitable litter materials are pine shavings, sawdust and straw. If the litter is kept dry it will reduce odour, provide a better fertiliser for the garden and reduce the risk of disease to the birds. Make sure the shed is well ventilated, but not draughty.

Figure 1.  A shed for up to 12 laying hens. A similar shed without the nestboxes and roost would suit meat chickens. (All measurements in mm)

A covered water trough, which automatically refills, mounted outside on the shed wall avoids wet litter. The trough should be 200 mm above floor level and should be long enough to allow each bird in the flock to drink at the one time. There are a variety of automatic waterers available from poultry equipment suppliers.

A self feeder is ideal for small flocks. There should be enough trough space for all the birds to feed at the same time.

The nest boxes should be mounted on the cool side of the shed preferably 600 to 900 mm off the ground. Allow one 300 mm x 300 mm nest box for every four hens. The nest material can be shavings, straw or shell grit, to a depth of 75 mm, and should be kept clean and dry.

Roosting perches made of 75 mm x 50 mm dressed timber placed 500 mm from the floor can be provided, but are not essential. If used, at least 150 mm of roost space per bird is required.

Meat chickens

A similar shed, without the roosts and nest boxes, would suit meat chickens. It would suit up to 40 meat chickens, although if grown to a heavier weight than 3 kg, stock at a lower rate (maximum of 28 kg/m2, lower in hot weather and to allow bird movement). Stocking density will also be affected by other factors such as the level of closure of blinds, buildings or trees blocking ventilation.

Cage unit shed

The cage unit shed usually has a lean-to roof (about 2 m high). A partial back and sidewalls at least 450 mm from the ground may be necessary in windy areas. All open areas of the shed should be covered in with wire netting to protect the birds from cats, rats and other birds. The cages are manufactured with feed troughs which attach to the front of the cage and a water trough or nipple waterers at the back.

Nipple waterers are mounted over a drip trough to keep spillage away from the droppings. Layer cages can be obtained from poultry equipment suppliers.

The accumulated droppings under the cage must be kept dry to prevent fly-breeding.

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Starting your flock

You can start your flock by purchasing point-of-lay pullets or day-old chicks. The point-of-lay pullet is around 18 weeks old and should start laying when she is about 22 to 24 weeks old. The four to six week period between purchase and first egg allows the pullet to get used to her new surroundings and settle in. The best time to buy started pullets is in December or January, as they will then lay for a full 12 months, without moulting in autumn. It is not recommended to mix birds of different ages and colours as this can upset the flocks established pecking order.

If you buy day-old chickens you should ask the supplier to confirm the chicks, have been vaccinated against common diseases such as fowl pox and Marek´s disease.

It is important to brood chickens at the correct temperature in an area free of draughts and with plenty of light.

Young chickens should have clean, fresh water and feed at all times. Keep an eye on the chicks, especially during the early brooding period and make sure they are comfortable. Use a chicken starter mash or crumble during this brooding period.

Some suitable breeds

Commercial crossbred pullets are the best performers under most conditions as they are good layers, not prone to broodiness and don´t eat as much as other breeds. Which ever breed you do choose, make sure they are purchased from a reputable supplier. There are specially bred birds, for egg-laying and for table purposes. Laying chickens are commonly bred from White Leghorn/Australorp crosses but several other new crosses are also available. The meat type chickens originated from White Leghorn, Australorp, Indian Game, Rhode Island Red, New Hampshire and other breeds. They can also be used for egg production but do not perform as well as the layer types.

Feed and water

Commercially prepared feeds should be used as it supplies the correct balance of protein, vitamins and minerals necessary for the bird´s health and maximum production.

Poultry feeds are available from produce merchants in mash, crumbles or pellet form. Adding grain or bread to these diets is not recommended because it dilutes the daily amount of vitamins and minerals the bird receives.

To help your fowls grind their food and digest it more efficiently, they should have an insoluble grit to pick at all the time. Shellgrit or calgrit also helps the hen build stronger egg shells.

Management of feeding

Feed should be available to the birds at all times. Self feeders are recommended. It must be kept dry and its freshness ensured by not buying more than 40 kg at one time. This should last 12 layers for about one month.

To avoid feed wastage, adjust the height of the feeder trough level with the hens back and do not fill troughs more than half-full. Clean the feeders regularly and remove stale, wet or mouldy feed.

Layer feed should not be given to chicks or growing stock because the high calcium level may cause kidney damage. Make sure the feed is approved for the type of poultry to which it is fed. Feed manufacturers label their product accordingly - that is, suitable for chickens, growers, or layers.

Household scraps

There is a legal requirement aimed at combating the introduction and spread of exotic animal diseases that no animal matter or other waste contaminated by animal matter is allowed to be fed. While it is okay to feed poultry with vegetable matter from the kitchen (where there is no risk of its being contaminated by animal matter) or the garden, it must never be substituted for the birds´ normal diet. As a guide, feed small amounts that the flock will eat in 5 to 10 minutes. Take care with scraps, those high in salt or contaminated with insecticide should be avoided. Silver beet, cabbage or cauliflower leaves can be given to hens. Fresh lawn clippings are excellent but large amounts are not recommended as they tend to go mouldy before being eaten.

Water

Since an egg is made up of 70 to 75% water, laying hens need a constant supply of fresh, clean water. Ten layers need a supply of approximately 3 litres of water per day. Water troughs must be kept clean and shaded from the sun.

Health and sanitation

To keep your fowls healthy:

• provide a shed that is comfortable, well-ventilated, well-lit and free from drafts and dampness;
• keep the shed clean;
• frequently renew the litter, wash or spray the shed with a disinfectant and insecticide (phenol or chlorine compounds are suitable);
• remove sick birds from the flock and keep them away from the other hens while treatment is given. It is often more humane to destroy sick birds;
• treat young birds for worm parasites every 2 to 3 months (healthy adult poultry usually acquire a resistance to internal parasites);
• treat the birds when necessary for pests such as lice, mites and stickfast fleas; and
• when the use of an antibiotic is recommended by your veterinarian read the label carefully. Restrictions and a withholding period may apply to the use of the eggs and meat.

Acknowledgment

Adapted from Fact sheet no 46/78 by Rod Woolford, Primary Industries and Resources South Australia.

Further information

Follow the link (leaves this website) to NSW Department of Primary Industries livestock, choose poultry menu item.